Don't Wind Me Up...

Wat’s Up?

Posted on September 12, 2014 by dontwindmeup

While over in this part of the world, Amy’s number one destination to visit was Cambodia and the temples around Siem Reap, specifically Angkor Wat. You can check the link for the history. It really is one of the most spectacular things I’ve ever seen, and that includes the Great Wall of China and the usual must-see sites of Europe. Pictures do not fully capture the place at all, especially the intricate carvings and details that adorn every surface.

I will include a few shots of the temples and the town in this post, but will follow this up with an email blast with links to sized-down versions of a lot of photos. View at your peril. On the way back we spent some time in Seoul and I will link to some of those shots as well, but they aren’t nearly as interesting. After being in Seoul, I was very glad to get back to Tokyo, for whatever that’s worth.

While in Siem Reap we stayed at the Shinta Mani Club Hotel. It is an oasis in the middle of a very poor city in a very poor country. By Cambodian standards it is a bit pricey. We were there in low season (always the chance of torrential rain…and hot), but by Western standards it was a bargain. Truly one of the nicest places we’ve stayed at regardless of location. The service and staff were top-notch and never failed to be gracious, kind, and helpful…highly recommended.

Look for an email with a Dropbox link (or if I’ve inadvertently left you off the list, please let me know and I can add you) to view the photos. If you have any questions about any of them, just contact me with a photo number for reference and I can (hopefully) give you more information.

: Angkor Wat from the East. Our guide took us to this little-used entrance and it was a very quiet walk to the temple.

: Getting closer. The wooden stairs are a recent addition to keep tourists off the original stone. Up until a couple of years ago people could climb all over, including some very steep and dangerous areas.

: It’s a jungle out there (sorry).

: A popular postcard view (without me in it, of course).

: Cars drive through one of the main gates to Bayon temple (my favorite). Buddha is watching on all sides.

: Face time. Bayon temple has approximately 200 Buddha faces carved into the various towers. It makes for a happy place.

: Banyan tree roots have grown over and into this section of one of the temples. Some temples have only been recently discovered and much of the damage done by the jungle growth cannot be undone.

: This is a typical power pole. We were subjected to rolling blackouts (fortunately late at night/early morning). Looking at this I marvel that the power works at all.

: Our tuk-tuk driver for the day (left) filling up the moped at the local ‘gas station.’ There are a few ‘real’ gas stations, but most gas is sold at roadside stands that sell it by the liter or half-liter. The most popular containers were old Johnny Walker bottles.

: On the road. We spent the day outside of the main city and stopped at this village.

: Tuk-ered out. It was really hot and this guy had the right idea.

: Lotus flowers at the front desk of the hotel. Every day they are changed. The petals are hand-folded.

: Drive-in picture show. On a dusty side-street people sit in lawn chairs and watch movies/TV shows on three screens. The volume was up loud on the center screen.

: The old market in Siem Reap. It is a full city block and covered with a tent-like structure for shade. This vendor is selling meat and has some ice to keep it cool. Most have no ice and there is no refrigeration. It was in the mid-90s with significant humidity.

: Even though the note at the bottom of this sign was reassuring, we stuck to the 50-cent draft beer.

Posted in Japan | Tagged Angkor Wat, Cambodia, Seoul, Shinta Mani, Siem Reap | Comments Off

Miscellaneous Mania…

Posted on August 29, 2014 by dontwindmeup

This post will be photo-heavy, not from any laziness on my part mind you. OK, maybe just a little. So pay attention to the captions.

Our biggest ‘adventure’ was going to see the summer fireworks show (hanabi-taikai) at the Meiji Jingu baseball stadium. This particular show is one of three large events held in Tokyo over the summer. People here love fireworks. It’s so popular, the streets are closed near the stadium so the overflow crowds can sit and picnic while they watch the fireworks exploding over the stadium.

It rained all day and poured on the way there. We got lucky though and it cleared just in time for the various performers to entertain us before the main event. We heard everything from an all-girl band (a bit screechy) to a guy I call the ‘Julio Iglesias of Japan.’ He was actually very good…mellow and dramatic with very white teeth, white headband, and aviator goggles perched on his forehead (no idea why).

The fireworks themselves were prolific (and loud), but with a Japanese twist. Every five minutes or so they would stop and the stadium Jumbotron would show a one- or two-minute commercial. In essence, ‘the next fireworks are brought to you by Sony (or xyz noodles).’ Very funny. For the big finish we were treated to fireworks along with a laser light show and music. It was like being at a Pink Floyd concert in 1972 except without the drugs.

Another outing took us the to Hotel Okura, an iconic hotel built for the ’64 Olympics. It’s due to be torn down and replaced early next year. The design is ’60s ‘Mad Men’ at its coolest. We expected to see Don Draper in the bar pitching a client over Old-Fashioned’s and Lucky Strikes.

We were there to participate in a shortened version of a traditional Japanese tea ceremony. It was the two of us and an Australian couple in town to visit their daughter. None of us had any clue what to expect. The one we attended lasted about an hour including information about the ceremony itself. It can last up to four hours, at which point one would die of thirst. This is the reason Lipton invented the tea bag. We did most things correctly, but our hostess was clearly appalled by our occasional mistakes in etiquette. They’ve been doing this sort of thing for eight hundred years so they’ve had a bit more practice than barbarians like us.

The neighborhood of Azabu-Juban is next to Hiroo and is a popular part of Tokyo that holds a festival (matsuri) every summer. The streets close down at 3pm and all kinds of food and drink vendors move in and set up shop. Other than games for children, it is all eating and drinking. It’s a big party that takes up many square blocks. The Japanese may be normally reserved in most things, but they definitely love festivals and parties. These types of festivals are great places to taste some terrific food (and drinks, of course).

: Throngs emerge from the Gaiemmae subway exit on the way to the fireworks show. We took a cab.

: A woman wearing the traditional summer yukata waits to cross the street towards the stadium for the fireworks show.

: Lots of people, lots of umbrellas. Fortunately the rain stopped an hour before the fireworks began.

: The infield at Meiji Jingu stadium (home of the Swallows!) was filled with a stage set up in center field. The fireworks were located in the left field bleachers where the white tarps can be seen.

: We saw a nice rainbow just as the rain stopped.

: At the Azabu neighborhood festival, kids scoop prizes out of a water-filled container.

: It was more than a bit crowded on the streets of Azabu-Juban, but everyone was polite and cheerful. Remember…walk to the left!

: A family set up their own picnic in the garage and outside of their building as the festival-goers streamed by.

: All sorts of delicacies were being cooked on portable grills. This is some sort of yakitori (meat grilled on a stick).

: Have you ever seen a guy wearing a Mt. Fuji hat? Well, now you have.

: The main part of the Hotel Okura is the low-rise building on the left. It’s across the street from the U.S. Embassy, and as such is a place frequented by distinguished visitors.

: In the lobby of the Hotel Okura waiting for the tea ceremony to begin.

: We sat (very quietly) during the ceremony that introduced us to the ‘way of tea.’

: In the tatami tea room in front of the sacred scroll.

: A kid’s shoe waiting to be ‘found.’ It most likely fell from a kid riding on the back of mom’s bike. Things unknowingly dropped are usually left where they are so the owner may reclaim them.

: Amy is buying a flowering plant at a little shop in the neighborhood. There are a lot of flower shops here.

: Looking out the window by the elevators on Amy’s floor. The JR train can be seen making its way to the station underneath her building.

: A ramen noodle shop just a couple of blocks from Amy’s office. Typically narrow and nothing fancy, but the noodles are terrific.

: Ramen in chicken broth with a bit of seaweed, meat, and of course, a beautiful soft-boiled egg. The chopsticks are for eating, the ladle is for slurping.

: A woman walks three-quarters of her long-haired dachshunds in Roppongi. Dog strollers are quite common here. I want to be reincarnated as a rich person’s dog in Tokyo.

: A window washer hanging from an Ebisu building. They rappel from the top and work their way down.

: Our local pub, the ‘Helmsdale.’ Lots of whisky but we tend to stick to the fish and chips and the Bass Ale on tap (nama biru).

: Cantaloupes on sale at the Farmer’s Market. On sale for $18, marked down from $20.

: The view from the top of the Mori Tower in Roppongi.

: The central hall of Mitsukoshi department store. The intricate statue is almost three stories tall.

: There are monsters in Tokyo…just like in the movies. This big bug was attached to our sliding door screen. I prefer to believe it was eating its way through Ebisu on its way to Shibuya. Where’s Godzilla when you need him?

Posted in Japan, Uncategorized | Tagged Azabu Juban, Festival, Fireworks, Hotel Okura, Tea | Comments Off

‘Betcha by Golly, Wow’

Posted on August 4, 2014 by dontwindmeup

Forgive me for burying the lede, wishing to save the best for last.

August in Tokyo is nothing if not hot. And by Grabthar’s Hammer is it hot (I’ll let you non-nerds look that one up). I will never complain about heat (dry California heat at least) again. The humidity here on certain days brings things up several notches.

I took a run/walk to Shibuya on Friday and got a later than optimal start at around 10am. It was blazing when I left the air-conditioned wonder that is modern indoor Tokyo, and when I stepped outside I almost turned right around. Being the stubborn person that I am, I soldiered/staggered on towards my goal. It’s probably only four miles or so round trip and I did my best to stay on the shady side of the street.

Perhaps because Tokyo is preparing for the Olympic Games in 2020 there is a lot of construction going on in Shibuya, one of the main transportation and civic centers in this part of the city. Intricate elevated walkways criss-cross the main intersections as large sections of land are fenced off and occupied by huge cranes. Part of the reason for choosing Shibuya station as my destination other than its reasonable proximity for a feeble man, was my search for Hachiko.

We had heard that there was a statue of a dog near the station, and I first heard the reason for this from my Japanese instructor, Saga-san. It is an inspirational story, and one that fits in well with the Japanese ethos of loyalty.

One of our favorite restaurants is LB7 located just down the block from the apartment. We’ve been back 3 times now and it’s been first-rate each time. One of the best seats in the house is at the ‘bar’ overlooking the cooking and food prep area. It is a treat to watch the chef as he meticulously (as most things are done here) but efficiently prepares a variety of dishes. Pork chops seem to be a signature dish and are amazingly good, but I try to force myself to try different things. This time I had the Caesar salad and steak (feel sorry for me).

Have I mentioned that it’s hot and expensive here? We’ve been to Harajuku already, it’s not far from the apartment and has some interesting shopping areas. But the main street there is clearly aimed at 20-somethings; it’s crowded, loud, colorful, etc. This past weekend we visited Sugamo, the neighborhood that is the polar opposite of Harijuku. It was as advertised. The best part was the blocks of ice that were on the street every few hundred feet. You could just stand there and rub your hands on the icy goodness. Other than that, not the most exciting part of the city. At least we tried, and it will be duly crossed off our list.

There are a couple of random photos thrown into the gallery with no real stories behind them, so I’ll let the captions do all the work.

Onto the main event: For this part of the post, wait until late at night, break out your best whiskey/Scotch/Cabernet (12-years old or older please), put on some ’70s soul music for your listening pleasure (turntable and vinyl if you’re able), and think about things that are smoooooth.

The setup: On the flight back from San Francisco, we were seated behind and next to, two men who knew each other, both apparently in their early 60s. I thought nothing of it until a flight attendant came over to the man across the aisle from me and began telling him all about how much he loved listening to Motown and soul music growing up as a boy in Iowa or some such place. Bear in mind that this was a gay, mid-western white man speaking so go figure. Just before we were about to land in Tokyo, two female attendants came over and had their picture taken with the same man.

Normally on flights, female attendants ask to get their pictures taken with me, so I was understandably a little miffed at the inattention I was receiving. I asked the man why all the fuss, and he told me he was a part of the musical group The Stylistics, and that they’d be in Japan for a week-long gig not too far from the apartment at Kento’s, a club in Ginza. Being a ~~connosuir~~ ~~connoiusseur~~ ~~connosurre~~ fan of ’70s soul myself, I’d heard the name but couldn’t place any of the hits. When we got back to the apartment and looked them up we knew we had to go see them perform.

Kento’s is, for lack of a better word, an ‘oldies’ club, for both people (myself included) and music. When we arrived we were ushered toward the back into a corner table. The location wasn’t too important because it was a very small club, seating only 200 or so. People were eating dinner before the show, and we were the only foreigners, besides the band, in the entire joint. Amy says the gin and tonic was mostly tonic and the beer was basic, but the music was terrific. They had and 14-piece Japanese backing band including horns and strings, and they played all the hits and sounded as good as they did when Nixon called it quits.

After the show we went down to the stage and they were very gracious, shaking everyone’s hand and posing for quick pictures. As we got handshakes the lead man seemed to recognize us and gave us a big wave and smile. I told him I sat behind him on the flight over and was grateful that he never leaned his seat back. He autographed a Kento’s coaster for Amy and disappeared through the stage door, as smooth as ever.

: Because of all the construction, there are a series of elevated walkways that are used to get around and cross the major roads going through Shibuya station.

: Expressway above, streets below, walkways in between. One of the main intersections in Shibuya is a busy place.

: Everyone wanted a picture with the Hachiko statue. Amy had to jump in quickly before being aced-out.

: Amy started with the grilled asparagus in a sauce with an egg yolk to mix in.

: I started with the Caesar salad. What I initially thought was a blob of dressing turned out to be a soft-boiled egg. Add some bacon-like ham and warm, toasted bread, and it was delicious.

: The strange tenderizing device used on my steak before cooking. It seemed to be designed to punch mini holes into the meat. Whatever…it worked!

: Individual steaks are cut, weighed, and trimmed to order from a larger, aged piece of meat.

: My steak at LB7 was perfectly cooked and very tender.

: This street in Sugamo goes on forever, and is lined with shops that sell everything imaginable to the discerning senior, mostly ladies.

: A father wearing traditional Japanese summer dress. Both men’s and women’s robes are called Yukata. The little girl loved rubbing her hands on the ice and then onto her face. Good idea.

: The sign for a hair salon in Sugamo, a part of town that caters to senior citizens…I have no idea what to think about this.

: There are a few different bus services in Tokyo. One of them (pictured) has buses that are, like many things here, very cute.

: ‘Jumbo’ is right. They’re also $7.50. Good thing I don’t like zucchini.

: However, I love watermelon. But at $32 for the equivalent of a small melon it will remain a treat for special occasions.

: No special reason for this shot other than the car is PINK. I walk past it almost every day on the way to the shops in Hiroo.

: Our Australian Chandon to celebrate a big sale for Amy.

: You can see in this shot just how small the venue is…a great place to get up close to the action.

: This was my view at Kento’s overlooking Ginza…from the men’s room.

: The stars of the show, backed by a 14-piece band including horns and violins.

: After the show we walked past a narrow, covered alley filled with very small restaurants on either side.

: On the walk back to Ginza station after the show. It was a hot night and many people were outside eating and drinking beer.

Posted in Japan | Tagged Food, Ginza, LB7, Shibuya, Stylistics, Sugamo | Comments Off

Kamakura

Posted on July 29, 2014 by dontwindmeup

We took the train out to this historic area just about an hour south of Tokyo on the coast. It was the center of a very important era of early government (Shoguns, etc.)

Not much to say other than we walked quite a bit as always. It was hot as always. But there was a beach. Not the nicest beach area I’ve ever seen. It looked as though it’s either seen past glories or perhaps there are great days still to come. I’m not convinced of either. Down at heel is the only thing that comes to mind.

Regardless, the architecture in the rest of the town was amazing. Having visited a Buddhist temple and a Shinto shrine back-to-back, we got a good sense of the differences between the two. Think of a blue-blood, WASPy New England country club. Old money. Staid and stodgy. Those are the Buddhists. Nice guys I’m sure. Now think about an Irish wake at a pub where the taps are open and the band is in rare form. Those are the Shintos. Not that they’re a bunch of hooligans, mind you, but they’re ‘fun.’

: For some scale, you can see Amy in the doorway. The curved roof looks great but it must have been difficult to build, especially pre- Black & Decker.

: This bell is about ten feet high and weighs thousands of pounds. It’s also 800 years old, give or take. Amazing what was done with metal casting ‘back in the day.’

: My one attempt at ‘artsy.’ Won’t happen again.

: A beautiful gate that seemed to always be closed.

: The dormitory for some of the monks is on the right. This peaceful area is behind the building where they gather for prayer. Reminds me of a short par 3 over water.

: Amy looking peaceful while she contemplates her club selection…wedge or 9-iron?

: Very colorful interior with a beautiful dragon motif ceiling.

: One of the temple buildings had this ‘Starving Buddha.’ Not sure what his purpose is, but he could clearly use a good meal.

: Nice ceiling…great color and intricate carvings. If there were no other tourists around it would feel like an ‘Indiana Jones’ set.

: A Kencho-ji Temple building. This vast Buddhist complex dates back to 1253.

: More intricate wood details. No routers, no electricity. I have no idea how this was done by hand.

: There must be nails here but I didn’t see any. It looks like a gigantic version of one of those wooden puzzles sold in Chinatown. All the pieces of wood fit together perfectly to form a shape. Maybe it was the inspiration for the game Jenga.

: Old Buddhist monks don’t die, they just fade away. Wait, they do die, and this is where they go.

: The water was warm.

: The beach was a bit grimy.

: The main shrine building on the top of the hill.

: There was a Shinto wedding going on in there. The band is just outside the building to the left. People were just walking by and peeking inside.

: Looking down from the shrine above at the ‘wedding chapel.’ A ceremony was going on amidst the crowds and activity.

: These sake casks, each about the size of a beer keg, are stacked in the Shinto shrine area. Party like it’s 1247.

: A pond with very large lilies (I think). People cross the bridge to a small island to eat and relax.

: The ‘Big Guy,’ all forty feet tall and 250,000+ pounds of him.

: The opening in the back provides ventilation and a bit of light for those inside.

: Inside the big Buddha head.

Posted in Japan, Uncategorized | Tagged Buddhist, Kamakura, Shinto, Travel | Comments Off

Reigning Cats…

Posted on July 8, 2014 by dontwindmeup

As always, meandering musings of nothing in particular, but pictures make it bearable…

Today (tomorrow for you past-dwellers) is ‘Tanabata,’ the ‘Star Festival.’ To celebrate we wrote wishes onto slips of paper and tied them to trees temporarily imported into our building’s lobby. We wished for success in Japan, and for good luck to Matthew (in his last year of college) and Rob (in his new job in Atlanta).

Tokyo, having more Michelin Star restaurants than any other city, offers a great variety of ethnic foods. Last week alone we had Italian and Indian, along with whatever’s in the refrigerator. The Indian was terrific (not that I’d know), with nan bread as big as a mainsail. Dipped in tikka masala and one other curry suggested by out gracious host, Muktar, it was delicious. Accompanied by gin and tonic, even better.

The Italian food was also very good. My traditional linguini (or spaghetti) with clams had a Japanese twist. Dehydrated salmon roe (eggs) were sprinkled on top. A bit ‘fishier’ than the norm, but not at all disagreeable. The restaurant has an interesting method for preparing risotto. After it’s cooked and ready to serve, it’s placed into a giant, hollowed-out half-wheel of Parmesan cheese and stirred so the cheese imparts that extra bit of flavor into the dish. I will have to order it next time to verify that it is as tasty as it seems.

It’s the rainy season so it…rains. Shopping in Shibuya was great. It was a nice hot, sunny day until the clouds rolled in accompanied by lightning and the loudest thunder (to a California boy) I’d ever heard. Thirty minutes later and all was back to normal except a bit of flooding.

We had our first official visitor, Anne Stricherz, a friend, Notre Dame alum, and dedicated golf fanatic here from San Francisco. Even traveling in Japan won’t deter her from the chance to lower her handicap, so off to the multi-tiered driving range we went. All of the fundamentals are sound, I am pleased to report. As long as she shifts her weight fully to the left side after impact and strikes the ball on a down and through path, I see no reason why a club title would not be in her future. Either way, she loves the game, and that is enough.

The fourth this year was on the fifth for us. But the club was all decked out in red, white, and blue with plenty of BBQ and beer, Coke, etc. for all to enjoy. Not exactly sunny weather, we took seats on the outside balcony and hoped for the best. Our timing was good and we were able to finish our meal before the rain started.

Buses, along with trains and subways, are a part of everyday life. One hundred yards from our apartment is a bus stop that serves the hospital as its last stop (terminal stop doesn’t sound right). We can hop on a bus, swipe our Suica Cards, and be at Ebisu Station in five minutes. The drivers are very polite, professional, and punctual. I had a good seat on one particular ride and could see the driver’s large pocket watch hanging on the dashboard. At the exact second according to the schedule, the door closed and he was off.

Cats. When we first anticipated moving to Tokyo, Amy read about ‘Cat Cafe’s’ (and French Maid Cafe’s, but that’s another story). Last week she located one a stone’s throw away from her office at Ebisu Station. It would be our appetizer before heading to Tandoor for dinner.

People of all stripes (even hapless foreigners) pay $12 per hour to sit in a room surrounded by lots of cats and do…not much. You can pet them, play with them, shake toys at them, and even feed them. All are docile and most are welcoming of attention. Some just want to sleep and are bored of the entire process. All I can imagine is that it’s a way for locals to de-stress after a long, hard day as a salary man (or woman).

There are cats, but there is no cafe…no coffee, frappuccino, tea, soda, or drinks of any kind. Only people petting (to be charitable) cats. The method of petting a cat in Japan is much akin to patting a dog or a bongo drum…short, fairly hard whacks in a repetitive manner. None of the ‘nice kitty’ strokes that would normally be applied in the US. These cats are apparently made of heartier stuff. It was difficult not to laugh out loud at the sight of a cat being pummeled mercilessly by a dour business man who looked like his next stop was the highest balcony without a railing he could find.

But perhaps ‘whacking the kitties’ (that doesn’t sound right) keeps him away from a premature final destination. Cat Cafe’s may be serving their purpose in society after all.

: The ‘Tanabata Tree’ in our apartment lobby. Good wishes for all.

: Ebisu at dusk waiting for the elevator to Tandoor, delicious Indian food with our host Muktar.

: Before risotto is served, it is first stirred in hollowed out half-wheels of parmesan cheese.

: Shibuya before the deluge. It was only 4:00 or so but it went from sunny to very dark. We don’t have lightning like this in CA.

: The result of the 30 minute rainstorm? Noah would have been impressed.

: Straight and true. Anne Stricherz whacking a few at Meiji jingu gaien driving range, just a 9-iron away from where the Swallows play baseball.

: TAC was decked out in red, white, and blue for the 4th (or 5th as the case may be). Hot dogs, hamburgers, and Budweiser for all.

: The buffet and downstairs bar of Tokyo American club on the 5th of July.

: We ate our Independence Day meal outside on the balcony under threatening skies. Just a tiny fraction of the Tokyo mega-city.

: Always on time. Note the pocket watch on the dashboard. Japanese trains and buses are nothing if not punctual.

: He’s got cat treats. That makes him the most popular man in the Cat Cafe.

: Will Amy become a cat lover? Stay tuned.

: A friend in high places.

: It’s a cat’s life, apparently. These two are just too tired to bother…

: “What the hell do you want?”

Posted in Japan | Tagged Cats, Food, Golf, TAC | Comments Off

Saturday Stuff

Posted on June 29, 2014 by dontwindmeup

We spent most of the day out and about, starting in Akihabara, then Asakasa, Meguro, and finally back in Hiroo.

Akihabara is a center for Manga, Anime, and electronics. There are mega-stores and shops filled with books, videos, TVs, cameras, etc. It was raining so we stopped for a quick snack at Mr. Donut. We brought our donuts and coffee upstairs to eat. When the coffee got low, a coffee girl came by and gave us a refill with a smile. Just like at Dunkin’ Donuts.

We’d been to Asakasa before to visit the temple and Kappabashi, the street that has all of the wholesale culinary stores. But last time we were there it was a holiday and many of the stores were closed. This time we got to see more and bought an inexpensive chef’s knife. The good knives were beautiful but over-the-top for chopping the occasional onion.

Back to Tonkatsu Tonki in Meguro for dinner, our second (but certainly not our last) visit. Supposedly the best tonkatsu in Tokyo so maybe the world? Crowded with all locals except us. We might even go back on Monday and take a friend who is visiting Tokyo.

Our nightcap event was a viewing of the 1937 musical ‘Shall We Dance,’ a George and Ira Gershwin musical screened in a meeting room at the Tokyo Jewish Community Center. We were invited by a marketing professor at Waseda University that Amy had previously met. He’s been having ‘movie nights’ every summer for many years and is very knowledgable about the industry and history. The Center is only 5 minutes from the apartment…we can see it looking out the balcony window.

Our previous meal at TAC was ‘new’ cuisine. Very unusual techniques and flavors. We were joined at the meal by Nargis and Atul, two new members like us recently arrived from Switzerland.

A couple of weeks back Amy was a guest speaker at an MBA class at Waseda University in Tokyo. She was invited by Sean Hackett who teaches MBA classes there in both English and Japanese (this class was in English). The students presented test cases and Amy gave feedback before telling them about Marketo products and solutions.

: The menu was movie-themed. The wine pairings were terrific.

: Amy ‘paints’ some sauce from a tube onto her plate palette.

: Our chef for the night, Iinuma-san.

: Fellow new TAC members Atul and Nargis with our waiter/’guide’ and chef.

: Mister Donut delivers on taste and service.

: Darth was pushing headphones. The ‘stormtrooper’ was unlike those in the movie.

: More ‘stormtroopers.’ They don’t look too dangerous.

: Bunny on a leash anyone? This one was hopping around the Buddhist temple in Asakasa.

: A very tiny sushi restaurant in Asakasa.

: Pre-schoolers being rolled around in cribs on wheels.

: Dinner last night. Tonkatsu, rice, miso, pickled cucumbers, peanuts, green tea, and beer.

: Amy and class at Waseda University. Sean Hackett is at left.

Posted in Japan | Tagged Akihabara, Asakasa, Food, Meguro, TAC | Comments Off

Tokyo Disney is Something to See

Posted on June 19, 2014 by dontwindmeup

The Tokyo Disney complex is about an hour away from the apartment toward the North end of Tokyo Bay. There are two main complexes; The Magic Kingdom and DisneySea, along with the usual shopping malls and hotels. We spent the day at DisneySea.

It was a very hot day but the humidity was thankfully low. Amy found some information online that seemed to indicate the crowds would be less than normal. Even though there were a lot of people there with us, everything functioned quite smoothly. Fast Pass was the way to go for many of the attractions, but the restaurants weren’t too full and service was quick and efficient (of course).

I’ll let the pictures do most of the talking, but here are some overall impressions and observations:

— People at the park were very enthusiastically dressed, far more so than I’ve seen at any Disney park in the US. Groups of girls in particular were coordinated with not only clothes but accessories (shoes, hats, ribbons, stuffed animals, etc.). Even guy/girl couples got into the act.

— The food was very good and not very expensive. Ice creams were $3.50 or so, hot dogs $4, beers $6. All very reasonable and good quality. Popcorn is big. There were ten or more popcorn stands scattered throughout the park, each serving a single flavor variety. The ‘usual’ flavors were Sea Salt and Caramel. After those is gets ‘interesting.’ Curry, Black Pepper, Soy Sauce and Butter, Milk Tea…you get the idea.

— Rides or attractions were similar to what you’ve come to expect, with variations based on the theme of the ‘land’ they were in. Instead of Dumbo’s flying elephant ride, kids could go on Aladdin’s flying carpet ride in the Arabian Coast section. The only big difference was Triton’s Kingdom, a massive dark (but intensely colorful) underground play area for children ranging from toddlers to ten or so years old. It was organized chaos with play structures and rides and kids running everywhere. Amy wondered how parents kept track of their kids, but most didn’t seem to mind if their little monsters (I mean darlings) wandered off into the labyrinthian darkness.

Next up will be The Magic Kingdom when we get around to it. The key will be to pick a ‘quiet’ day (it’s usually filled to capacity). I’m sure it will just as enjoyable as our time at DisneySea, surrounded by incredibly enthusiastic Duffy (and Shellie May) fans.

: Disney gets the details right. The normally plain train handles on the Disney shuttle have been ‘Mouseified.’

: View from the shuttle station. Just like Italy except for the giant spinning globe fountain and all the Japanese people (wait, that last part is the same).

: The view across the lagoon.

: When the Mysterious Island volcano erupts there are lots of flames and LOTS of noise.

: The Tower of Terror awaits. The masses of people are awaiting the Fast Pass kiosks at the wildly popular Toy Story ride.

: Just the view…

: View from the fore deck of ‘Columbia,’ the land-locked ocean liner with the mercifully air conditioned bar.

: A rare Mickey sighting. Duffy seems to have taken over the helm at DisneySea.

: Duffy and his friend Shellie May are all the rage.

: Port Discovery. Can you spot the ‘twins’?

: Inside the caldera of the Mysterious Island Volcano. The giant drilling machine is beginning its ‘Journey to the Center of the Earth.’

: This underground kids park in Mermaid Lagoon goes on forever. The scale and color cannot be captured in a photo. It’s enormous.

: Chip (or is it Dale?) is very popular with the ladies. With that hair and those glasses, who wouldn’t be?

: ‘I Wanna Be Like You.’ (Prima) donnas pose.

: Coordinated outfits are definitely ‘a thing.’

: All the girls are wild about Duffy.

: The heat was barely bearable, but we found refuge in the Teddy Roosevelt bar aboard the SS Columbia.

: ‘O sole mio.’ Venice by day. The gondoliers’ serenade may not be Pavarotti, but Luciano would appreciate the effort.

: Venice by night. We ate dinner at Canaletto.

Posted in Japan | Tagged Disney, DisneySea, Food | 1 Comment

A Little of This…

Posted on June 11, 2014 by dontwindmeup

…a little of that.

First up, food. Let me say right off that food is likely to come up quite a bit in these posts. It’s probably because I’ve never seen so many restaurants jammed together in my life. I would bet a dollar that more people eat in restaurants here per capita than anywhere else in the world. We were told by a native that the reason Japanese restaurants are usually of such high quality is because there is so much competition. There are 13-plus million people here all very hungry, and all (seemingly) with money to spend. Whatever the reason, you will never starve in this city, although you may go broke.

So not only are there restaurants galore, there are a plethora of specialty store and shops supporting the culinary industry. There is a store that sells nothing but salt. Yes, salt. A bewildering array of every type of color, texture, and flavor (if that’s possible, given that salt tends to have an underlying ‘saltiness’). I’ve observed that McDonald’s fries seem to be much saltier here, which I consider to be a good thing. Oddly enough, Heinz ketchup is notably sweeter; not so good. Speaking of McDonald’s, we were at a Shinjuku branch over the weekend and like most restaurants and establishments, there was more than one floor. On the second floor eaters are treated to counters and and almost cubicle-like layout. My quarter-pounder wasn’t ready at the same time as Amy’s hamburger but no worries, a helpful associate brought it upstairs to me after it was freshly cooked. Now that’s service.

On to the pictures of the school girls. I took those photos today and tried to be discreet, not wishing any mothers to call the police. Every time we’re out and about and see the little kids in their uniforms marching along resolutely, we invariably turn to each other and say, ‘they’re so cute!’ I don’t know if it’s a private or public school thing, but all of the kids seem to wear uniforms of some sort, only distinguished by their age and grade. They are invariably equipped with large, sturdy backpacks and sailor-style hats. Today, walking around Roppongi (one subway stop away) school had just gotten out and there were lots of kids heading toward the subway. Many of them were with parents, but these two, who couldn’t have been more than seven or eight, were walking along by themselves, chatting and giggling, without a care in the world on one of the area’s busiest streets. Kids here are very independent (and as you can see, very cute).

Dinner tonight was Mexican. It’s a restaurant in the area that Amy assured me had received good reviews. It was described online as ‘…the best Mexican restaurant in Tokyo,’ which is kind of like me being described as the ‘tallest person in our apartment.’ But I was pleasantly surprised. The staff was friendly and the food was good, if different than the usual California-Mexican fare. We’ll go back, but next time we’ll get a reservation. Believe it or not it was very busy on a Tuesday night.

: A ‘Lot’ of salt…

: A fraction of the thousands of varieties of salt. Note the mysterious shoes in the window reflection.

: It was a rainy day and McDonald’s was packed. It seems to be comfort food even here.

: Friends heading home from school.

: The backpacks are almost as big as they are.

: At ‘Salsita,’ the bar was hopping.

: We had seats at the counter opposite the kitchen or, ‘the chef’s table.’

: Guacamole is always good no matter where you are.

: The proper relationship twixt lid and cup, the way God intended.

Posted in Japan | Tagged Food, People | Comments Off

180 Degrees of Food

Posted on June 6, 2014 by dontwindmeup

We went out to eat both Thursday and Friday nights. The meals couldn’t have been more different. Each was eaten on a very rainy night. June and July constitute ‘tsuyu,’ or the ‘rainy season,’ and we’re resigned to getting wet for the foreseeable future.

Thursday night was dinner with the Notre Dame Club of Tokyo group. We all met at Mori No beer garden for ‘yakiniku.’ Apparently this type of meal is very popular. You pay a flat fee at the door (4,100 yen for men, 3,800 yen for women). For $40 or so, it’s essentially all you can eat for two hours between 7 and 9pm.

While it may seem a bit pricey for relatively basic fare, food prices in Tokyo are high as are beer prices. If you apply yourself, you can get your money’s worth and then some.

The beer taps are open. The waiters bring large trays of food (meat, vegetables, etc.) that are then thrown onto a large, very hot griddle in the middle of the table. It’s heated from underneath by a large propane tank. You then push the food around for a bit until it’s cooked and ready to eat.

The meal on Friday was at the Tokyo American Club (TAC as it’s known). It’s about a mile and a half away and is normally an easy walk. But with the rain we took the taxi both ways.

The restaurant is ‘modern elegant’ with attentive, personal service by the staff. Menus are presented on iPads. In addition to the list of appetizers, main courses, wine, etc., there are pages for cocktails and even Cuban cigars for after dinner. I remarked to Amy that it was ‘very civilized.’

The food was terrific in both locales, each with it’s own charm. Eating yakiniku is kind of like camping, while TAC is 180 degrees in the opposite direction. Either way, both meals were hard to beat.

The first photo is the odd man out, but I included it because of the non sequitur English blurb on the package. There’s a great love of American culture, and along with that a lot of English used on T-shirts, packages, ads, etc. Much of it, as is the case here, tends to make very little sense to a native speaker.

: Waiting for the ATM machine at 7-11, I was standing next to a selection of 7-11 brand cookies and treats. All of them had this slogan on the packages. Huh?

: The taps are open so drink away!

: I got there a bit late but they saved a mug for me.

: The three on the right are US Navy; a doctor and two dentists.

: The ‘bread’ was delicious and buttery. The black powder on the right is sea salt for dipping. It is infused with carbon (produced in Norway). Really.

: Amy had the scallops from Hokaido.

: I had the chicken (with perfect grill marks) and pilaf complemented by a delicious, spicy BBQ suace

: My starter was an onion soup served in a small copper pot. Delicious.

: Our appetizer. Scallops, crab puree, and tuna tar tar.

Posted in Japan | Tagged Food, TAC, Yakiniku | Comments Off

People and Other Things

Posted on June 3, 2014 by dontwindmeup

There is a lot of amazing architecture here to counter-balance the mostly plain post-war brick and concrete structures.

But the most interesting thing about Tokyo is people. Twenty-plus million of them. And while the people here may be fairly conservative in dress and style when going to work, on the weekends they can really break out.

Here are just a few shots of people doing what people do here; hanging out, having fun, and of course, being stylish.

: The Finn Air mascot just hanging around outside of a building in Roppongi. There was actually a line to pose with ‘it.’

: Waiting for the train at Ginza station. (L to R: Mr. Excitement, Amy, Annoyed Woman).

: A lot of people smart enough to be in the shade near the Omotesando shopping area.

: ‘I’m Batman.’

: ‘…Well, maybe not. But I do wear his shoes.’

: Scooter on steroids. Kind of a cross between a moped and a Harley.

: Outside Shinegawa Pachinko. Usually there are one or two people outside dancing to draw customers.

: Inside the Pachinko Parlor at Shinegawa Station. When you open the doors, all hell breaks loose.

: Yes, people go out in public dressed this way. To be fair, it was part of a group involved in a festival event.

: This is an unknown mascot at the entrance to Bic Camera (a crazy store that sells electronics and almost everything else). A huge crowd was watching and waiting to take pictures. The four girls are part of the show. The guy in front is being sought for questioning.

: Shoes!!! At a department store where there was a demo of some sort going on inside.

: Everybody loves baseball…especially the Japanese. This outgoing player was waiting with his team to play in a tournament in Yokohama.

: Wear it with pride. The clothes in Tokyo (and especially the shoes) defy description.

Posted in Japan | Tagged Mascots, People, Shoes | Comments Off

Don't Wind Me Up…